Composting

Build a Backyard Compost Pile

How much work is really involved?
Composting can be as much or as little work as you want to make it. The more effort you put into it, the faster you will have finished compost Building a "hot pile" takes more effort and cecomposes faster that a "cold pile". A "hot pile" is a pile that has been built with optimum mass, mositure, air, and materials in a 30.1 carbon-to-nitrogen ratio. It is called a "hot pile" because the pile reaches over 140 degrees F at its center as these conditions attract thermophylic bacteria, the most efficient decomposer.

Equipment required?
The only required equipment is a shovel or pitchfork to turn or move the content of the pile. You will likely use a water hose. A compost bin is recommended. Equipment you may also use includes a shovel, pitchfork, mulching mower or other chopping instrument, garden gloves, and wheelbarrow. Equipment you may eventually use if you are REALLY serious includes an aeration toll, thermometer, and compost siffer.

A Beginner's Overview

 

1. Build the Pile You may simply throw in organic materials as they become available. This will result in a very slow decomposition process, but may be appropriate if you are not in urgent need of the finished compost. If you are building a pile using the batch process for faster decomposition, follow these steps:
   • Wet the Ground under the Pile
   • Put twigs or other unshredded carbon on the bottom of the pile to provide some aeration at the base.
   • Layer the rest of your materials, alternating nitrogen and carbon layers. Add water as you go.
   • End with a carbon layer.
2. Cover the Pile (Optional) Experts disagree on whether a cover is necessary. If you live in a region that is excessively dry or excessively wet, cover the pile with a black plastic garbage bag to retain moisture or guard against rain.
3. Monitor the Pile (Optional) Check to see that your pile becomes hot within a few days. The pile's heat should peak again after turning. After that, it should peak again every time you turn it, although the peak temperature will be lower and lower with each turn. Also monitor the moisture content of your pile. When you pick up a handful of material, it should feel like a wrung-out sponge.
4. Turn the Pile (Optional) Turning the pile means stirring it up by some method. Turn the pile to decrease composting time. Turning the pile allows all the material to be exposed to the hot center and increases aeration. Some turn theirs once a week to once a month. 

How to Introduce Oxygen into Your Pile Elevate the base of your pile Position PVC pipe down middle of pile Adjust particle size Turning  When temperature drops below 100 ºF Take outside edges and turn into the inside or bottom  Wet pile when turning  Use manure fork vs. pitch fork

Composting Problems Slow decomposition  Not enough moisture C:N ratio is off Particles too large Lack of oxygen  Volume Ammonia odor Too much N Pests: snakes, rabbits, bumble bees Cold Pile Not turned rodents Meats, bones, fats Pile is too wet Needs turning, or add dry material Form pile into mountain

 

DIY Compost Bins

• WOODEN-PALLET HOLDING UNIT

A holding unit can be built inexpensively using wooden pallets, or pressure-treated lumber may be used to make a nicer looking bin. The costs will vary, depending on whether new lumber or pallets are used. Used pallets are often available from manufacturers and landfills.

Materials
• four wooden pallets (Five pallets if you want a bottom in the container), sized to make a four-sided container at least 3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet
• nails
• baling wire 
or
• two eight-foot lengths of 2 x 4 pressure-treated lumber
• five 12-foot lengths of 1 x 6 pressuretreated lumber
• galvanized 8d nails (1 pound)

Tools
• saw
• sledge hammer
• claw hammer
• work gloves

Building a Holding Unit Using Wooden Pallets
1. Nailor wire four pallets together to make a four-sided bin at least 3 feet x 3 feet x 3 feet. The bin is then ready to use.
2. A fifth pallet can be used as a base, to allow more air to get into the pile and to increase the stability of the bin.

Building a Holding Unit Using Lumber
1. Saw the 8-foot lengths of 2 x 4 pressure-treated lumber into four pieces, each 4 feet long, to be used as comer posts.
2. Choose a 3-foot-square site for your compost bin. Use the sledge hammer to pound the four posts into the ground 3 feet apart, at the comers of the square.
3. Saw each of the five 12-foot boards into four 3-foot pieces. Allowing five boards to a side and, starting at the bottom, nail the boards to the posts to make a four-sided container. Leave 2 inches between the boards to allow air to get into the pile.
4. If you wish to decrease your composting time, build a second holding unit so that the wastes in one can mature while you add wastes to the other.

• WIRE-MESH HOLDING UNIT

A wire-mesh holding unit is inexpensive and easy to build out of either galvanized chicken wire or hardware cloth. (Nongalvanized chicken wire can also be used, but will not last very long.) Posts provide more stability for a chicken wire bin, but make the bin difficult to move. A wire-mesh bin made without posts is easy to lift, and provides access to the compost that is already "done" at the bottom of the pile while the compost at the top of the pile is still decomposing.

Materials
• at least a 10-foot length of 36-inch-wide I-inch galvanized chicken wire
or
• at least a 10-foot length of 1/2-inchwide hardware cloth (Note: The maximum bin diameter for a given length of chicken wire is the length of chicken wire divided by 3.14.)
• heavy wire for ties
• three or four 4-foot tall wooden or metal posts (for chicken wire bin.)

Tools
• heavy-duty wire or tin snips
• pliers
• hammer (for chicken wire bin)
• metal file (for hardware cloth bin)
• work gloves

Building a Wire-Mesh Holding Unit Using Chicken Wire
1. Fold back 3 to 4 inches of wire at each end of the cut piece to provide a strong, clean edge that will not poke or snag, and that will be easy to latch.
2. Stand the wire in a circle and set it in place for the compost pile.
3. Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the ends of the chicken wire together with the wire ties, using pliers.
4. Space wood or metal posts around the inside of the chicken-wire circle. Holding the posts tightly against the wire, pound them firmly into the ground to provide support.

Building a Wire-Mesh Holding Unit Using Hardware Cloth
1. Trim the ends of the hardware cloth so that the wires are flush with a cross wire to get rid of edges that could poke or scratch hands. Lightly file each wire along the cut edge to ensure safe handling when opening and closing the bin.
2. Bend the hardware cloth into a circle, and stand it in place for the compost pile.
3. Cut the heavy wire into lengths for ties. Attach the ends of the hardware cloth together with the wire ties, using pliers.

• WOODEN THREE-BIN TURNING UNIT

  This turning unit is a permanent, sturdy structure, but it may be difficult to space the posts to the exact dimensions illustrated. Before cutting the removable slats that slide into the grooves at the front of each bin, cut one slat and check for proper fit in each bin.

  Materials
  (All lumber should be pressure-treated)
  • eight 4-inch x 4-inch x 6-foot posts
  • seven I-inch x 6-inch x 12-foot back slats
  • fourteen x 6-inch x 4-foot end/side slats
  • four I-inch x 6-inch x 4-foot fronts
  • fourteen I-inch x 6-inch x 46 1/4-inch dividers
  • twenty-four I-inch x 6-inch x 42 13/I6-inch (approximate) front slats
  [Note: before cutting all the front slats, cut one and check for proper fit in each bin.]
  • four I-inch x I(+)-inch x 4-foot cleats, rip cut from one four-foot I x 6 (the cleats are retainers for slats)
  • 8d galvanized deck nails or deck screws
  • one tube exterior construction adhesive
  • (optional) one I-inch x 6-inch x I2-foot top rail

  Tools
  • post hole digger
  • hammer
  • saw
  • tape measure
  • drill

  Building a Wooden Three-Bin Turning Unit
  1. On level ground, set the eight posts as shown below using a post hole digger. (The posts are shown as darkened squares.) Embed each post 2 feet into the ground. Be sure all posts are plumb (perpendicular to the ground). The top of each post should be at the same distance above the ground (48 inches).

2. Nail (or screw) on the back and side slats and dividers (pre-drill all holes to prevent splitting). Use adhesive on all joints. The bottom slats should be at ground level. Leave I 1/2-inch (horizontal) spaces between slats. Note that the ends of the dividers should come out to I inch behind the front of the front posts, as shown in the illustration above.

3. Install the fronts and cleats, as shown for one of the center divider posts at right.

4. After the front slats have been sized and cut, slide them into place between the fronts and cleats as shown in the completed bin illustration above.

5. (Optional) Nail the top rail to each front post, as shown in the completed bin illustration above. Do not use adhesive, and donot drive the nails in fully, as they will be removed to allow
access to the slats. The top rail is suggested to prevent the front posts from moving laterally. Another option to discourage this is to use 4-inch x 4-inch x 7-foot posts and embed them one foot deeper.

• GARBAGE-CAN COMPOSTER

A garbage-can composter is inexpensive and easy to build. It can be used for food or garden wastes. The wastes do, however, need to be turned.

Materials
• garbage can with cover
• coarse sawdust, straw, or wood chips

Tools
• drill
• pitch fork, shovel, or compost turner
• work gloves

Building a Garbage-Can Composter
1. Drill three rows of holes 4 to 6 inches apart all around the sides of the garbage can. Then drill several holes in the base of the garbage can. The holes allow air movement and the drainage of excess moisture.
2. Place 2 to 3 inches of dry sawdust, straw, or wood chips in the bottom of the can to absorb excess moisture and let the compost drain.

 

Manufactored Bins

coming soon...

Vermicomposting

coming soon....